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19 May 2025
Long before Sedona became today’s popular destination, a few adventurous souls made their homes in this what we now revere as a geological wonderland. At 4,350 feet in Central Arizona’s Verde Valley, Sedona is surrounded by a dramatic landscape shaped by volcanic activity and erosion. These natural forces carved out Oak Creek Canyon and created the signature oxidized red rocks that have made the area internationally famous, and make up the Red Rock State Park.
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Red Rock State Park, which spans 286 acres just nine miles south of downtown Sedona, now protects this remarkable terrain. Established in 1991, the park’s mission is to educate visitors about the local ecosystem, focusing on the diverse desert and riparian habitats around Oak Creek. However, before the park’s establishment, the land was at risk of being lost to development, and even to a religious sect.
From the 1800s to the 1930s, several homesteaders made their mark on the land that would later become Red Rock State Park. These settlers ranched, farmed, and grew fruit orchards. In 1941, a wealthy couple, Jack Frye and Helen Varner Vanderbilt Frye, purchased all five homesteads and the surrounding land, eventually amassing a 700-acre property named Smoke Trail Ranch. They envisioned transforming the land into a private getaway retreat.
Among their contributions to the area was the construction of a notable architectural feature still in the park today: the House of Apache Fires. Built-in a Pueblo style, this home was designed by Jack Frye in collaboration with the Yavapai-Apache people. The house was constructed using red rock and timber sourced directly from the surrounding land, beginning in 1947 and spanning three years. The 3,000-square-foot home featured two levels, three fireplaces (including one on the rooftop), a commercial gas range, and a bed suspended from the ceiling in the main bedroom. The home’s name came from Helen Frye’s admiration for the fires the Indigenous people used to light along Oak Creek as they camped in the area.
However, the Frye couple’s dream retreat soon unraveled as their relationship faltered. Construction on the home ceased, and Helen became the sole owner of Smoke Trail Ranch. In the 1950s, she built a new home on 32 acres of land, naming it Wings of the Wind. In the early 1970s, she sold over 300 acres of the ranch to a developer who planned to build a resort, but the project was ultimately abandoned due to a lack of funds.
By this time, Helen Frye had developed an interest in mysticism and became involved with a religious group called Eckankar. In 1976, she donated the Wings of the Wind land to the Eckankar sect, along with over $1 million, under the condition that they allow her to live there. She continued to live on the property until she died in 1979. Helen’s goal was for the group to purchase the remaining land of Smoke Trail Ranch from the developer and turn it into a private retreat for its members. The sect renovated the House of Apache Fires to suit their needs, but in 1980, the property’s fate took another dramatic turn.
A confrontation occurred when a member of the Eckankar sect expelled a group of hikers from the land for trespassing. Among the hikers was Governor Bruce Babbitt, who was outraged that land along Oak Creek could be inaccessible to the public. Governor Babbitt strongly believed that the area should be preserved for the people of Arizona, and he proposed a land acquisition to transform part of Smoke Trail Ranch into a state park.
His vision called for a land exchange between the state, a mining company, and the Eckankar group to secure the 286-acre plot. After years of negotiations, political wrangling, and legislative hurdles, the state finally acquired the land in the early 1990s. In 1991, the land officially became Red Rock State Park, ensuring this natural wonder would be preserved for generations.
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Today, Red Rock State Park remains one of Arizona’s most cherished landscapes, offering visitors a chance to explore the scenic beauty, diverse wildlife, and deep history of the Sedona area. The park is a testament to the perseverance of those who fought to protect the unique wonders of Sedona’s red rock landscape.
Photo credit: Al_HikesAZ
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